Imagine that a pizzeria and a bakery had a baby. That’s how Adam Ritter describes his latest endeavor, Kermit’s Bake Shoppe, located at 2204 Washington Avenue.
When it opens on Monday, July 22, Kermit’s Bake Shoppe will be equal parts nostalgic and cutting-edge contemporary. Philadelphia staples like bagels, classic cakes and pizza are all on the menu, but with wheat crusts and gluten-free doughs. You’ll order everything through a custom smartphone app. Deliveries will be made on a retro delivery bike. It is, in short, the best of the old Philly and the new Philly.
The idea for Kermit’s developed organically over the last few years, just like Ritter’s bars, The Sidecar Bar & Grille and Kraftwork. The bakery will open with the tastes of the surrounding Graduate Hospital neighborhood in mind. Avoiding the industry catchphrase “accessible,” Ritter said Kermit’s is pretense-free, friendly and priced accordingly.
The Menu
A team that includes Georges Perrier alum Brian Lofink and reality TV contestant Chad Durkin created the menu, which draws heavily on childhood favorites and Philadelphia institutions—updated for the times with healthier alternatives and some gourmet flourishes. For pizza crust, you’ll have your choice of either a house-made white wheat dough or a crispy gluten-free version from Taffet’s, for example.
The pizzas are all topped with a custom blend of cheeses and, like any self-respecting pizza shop, can be completely customized. There are also six specialty pizzas already on the menu, including Sausage & Peppers (house-made garlic sausage, roasted long hot peppers, caramelized onions and sharp provolone) and White Mushroom (white sauce, crimini and maitake mushrooms, sliced leeks, sea salt and crucalo).
The gluten-free crust is available as a 12-inch pie and the white wheat as 18-inch, or by the slice. Pizzas range from $15 to $20. Toppings include a variety of cheeses, meats like artisanal pepperoni and house-smoked BBQ chicken, and “not meats” such as artichokes and garlic spinach.
A variety of soups will also be on the menu, each with their own accompanying bread. Chicken Spaetzle comes with a hunk of mustard bread, Potato Leek with goat cheese flat bread and the Tomato Gazpacho with olive bread. Soups are $4 for 12 oz. and $10 for $32 oz. The menu also includes a variety of Hot Pockets (aka, hand pies) for $4 and salads.
For those with a sweet tooth, the cold case will always be filled with an array of 8-inch cakes in traditional flavors. Ranging from $18 to $22, they include The Classic (vanilla bean sponge cake, vanilla butter cream and raspberry jam); 24 Carat (pure carrot cake, cream cheese butter cream); and The 9th Street (a classic tiramisu). There will be pies and tarts, too.
Candies and confections include bars in flavors like passion hazelnut and crunchy crunch. Treats like divinity, pecan pralines and fudge are also made daily. There will be pop tarts and cream puffs, too. Prices range from $2 to $8.
Carb-wise, there will be a weekly brioche quiche and breads such as tomato herb focaccia, gluten-free baguette and whole-wheat pita, plus scones and buns. On Saturdays and Sundays, there will be a selection of Croissant ($3–4) and Bagels ($1.25) while supplies last.
The Men in the Kitchen
Ritter tapped his long-time collaborator and executive chef at Sidecar and Kraftwork, Brian Lofink, and a new hire, pastry chef Chad Durkin, to create the throwback menu. They in turn forged partnerships with partners like Claudio’s and the kosher/gluten-free Taffet’s, both in the Italian Market just a few blocks down Washington Avenue.
A Philly boy, Lofink knows of what he speaks when it comes to local flavors—although there were a lot of ethnic influences in his childhood, too. After graduating from Drexel’s culinary arts program, he spent nearly five years in the kitchen at Brasserie Perrier under Chef Chris Scarduzio. From there, it was on to Matyson, a BYOB led at the time by Chef Matt Spector. He eventually worked his way up to running the kitchen.
Then he met Ritter, who wanted him at Sidecar. There, Lofink’s menus over the years have featured signatures such as “the app formerly known as …” (crab fries) and creamy mushroom polenta, plus tongue-in-cheek dishes like “clam chowder gnocchi,” which was recently featured on an episode of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives with Guy Fieri.
Durkin was ready for a challenge after returning home from filming TLC’s Next Great Baker. A neighborhood resident, he was a regular at Sidecar and struck up a friendship with Lofink and Ritter as they were hatching plans for nearby Kermit’s.
Durkin grew up in the kitchen at his grandfather’s Italian restaurant, where he learned to bake rustic breads and pastries. At The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College, he won a spot on the 2004 American Culinary Federation Youth Team as their pastry chef and interned under Master Pastry Chef Gunther Heiland. He became Executive Pastry Chef (and earned a coveted 4-bell review from Craig LaBan) at Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine before moving to Water Works, where he was the opening Executive Pastry Chef and Chef de Cuisine. While at Water Works, he was a finalist in the American Culinary Federation’s Pastry Chef of the Year regional competition. He has taught at the Art Institute of Philadelphia and Montgomery Community College and made appearances on four Food Network Challenge episodes and TLC’s Next Great Baker in 2012. He advanced to the 9th round in the third season, which aired through February of this year.
About Kermit’s Bake Shoppe
Located at 2204 Washington Avenue, Kermit’s will open to the public on Monday, July 22. Summer hours are Monday–Friday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. In the beginning, it will be carryout only, although there is a long counter if you’re just grabbing a slice or sipping La Colombe coffee. Delivery will be phased in, along with the smartphone app, in the coming months. Find the menu online here. To order ahead for pick-up, call 267-639-4340.
- Photography: Kermit's Bake Shoppe
