Morgan’s Pier is back in business for its fifth season … and we could not be more pumped to welcome the waterfront wonder onto our culinary radar once again. Since opening in 2013, Morgan’s Pier has hosted a rotating list of the city’s best chefs, including Top Chef winner Nick Elmi of Laurel, George Sabatino of Aldine and David Katz of Mémé.
This year’s chef-in-residence is Philly native Jim Burke, the former chef/owner of James, which closed its doors in 2011 to the dismay of many in the City of Brotherly Love. Burke’s culinary accolades include being named Food & Wine’s “Best New Chef” and earning a James Beard nomination.
Burke’s menu features a variety of Italian-inspired plates, including gnocchi gratin with creamy summer truffle, fried risotto arancini stuffed with lamb ragu, prosciutto topped with grilled melon and roasted lamb. Don’t worry, favorites from chefs-in-residence past will also be available (yes, you can still get Elmi’s lobster roll). See the full menu here.
We recently spoke to Burke about this new endeavor, how he planned a menu for Morgan’s Pier’s notoriously large crowd and what his last meal in Philadelphia would be if absolutely he had to choose:
PA Eats: First, tell us a little bit about yourself. What brought you to Philadelphia?
Chef Jim Burke: I was born and raised in Philadelphia, and aside from a few years in New York and two years in Italy, I’ve lived here all my life. My first restaurant job was as a dishwasher when I was 16. I wasn’t the most adventurous eater at that age, so the food wasn’t what I fell for first, it was the atmosphere (although that was where I fell in love with pasta and literally ate penne arrabiata every day). Looking back now, it’s obvious that this was a particularly raucous group, but I was amazed that a legitimate business could function in such a seemingly chaotic environment. I grew up playing all kinds of sports, so I took well to the physical nature of the work and got better at each level as I moved up.
How did you get started as a chef?
I got my first taste of being a professional cook at the former Adam’s Mark Hotel here in Philadelphia under Chef Vince Alberici; that’s where I saw what it really took to become a chef and that’s when I decided to do it.
It’s been a few years since you’ve cooked in Philly. What prompted you to join Morgan’s Pier this season?
It’s very exciting environment with a lot of great energy; it’s also completely different from anything I’ve ever done, which is very interesting to me. And, it was a case of great timing. [Restaurateur] Avram Hornik seems to have a knack for finding chefs that have a window of opportunity that fits perfectly for Morgan’s Pier. I was finishing a consulting gig, and Kristina [Burke’s wife] and I are still a ways off from getting our own projects rolling; Avram got in touch with me, we sat down for a bit, and that was pretty much it, I was on board.
Can you give me a little insight into your menu inspiration for Morgan’s Pier?
Obviously, everything I do comes first and foremost from an Italian perspective. I think that works perfectly here because of the way that most people eat here—it’s a giant aperitivo, which is essentially happy hour. We wanted lots of accessible, shareable snacks that would fit perfectly between drinks and friends.
The crowd at Morgan’s Pier can vary drastically depending on the time of day or day of the week. How did you account for all the different consumers when planning a general menu?
You have to put the customer first, think about what they are looking for. You’re absolutely right; the crowd does vary quite a bit, but everyone is looking for something simple, but thoughtful and well prepared.
How about the sheer volume of customers? Did you plan the menu with that in mind?
Definitely. It would have been a very painful lesson if I had not.
What has been the most difficult part so far of working at Morgan’s Pier? How about your favorite part?
So far, it’s been the awful weather. We had an amazing opening weekend and it’s been raining ever since. We’re trying to stay in the mindset that as soon as the weather breaks, we are going to get crushed, but it can be difficult to switch gears like that. The best part was the energy of that first weekend and how smoothly it went; when our GM, Dana Canalichio, said after our first Saturday that it felt like we had been open for months, that felt good.
Morgan’s Pier marks an exciting moment for Philadelphia’s previously neglected waterfront. What other trends (both culinary and not) are exciting you in the City of Brotherly Love?
I am amazed at the growth that Center City is experiencing right now. I don’t think there’s ever been a better time in Philadelphia as far as the diversity and quality of restaurants. The word “oversaturated” is used often in our industry, and I think without this growing Center City population, we would unfortunately be using that word a lot more in the context of restaurants that have closed.
Let’s pretend you are moving to a new city, never to return to Philadelphia again. What’s your last meal in the city? You get an appetizer, entrée, dessert and beverage. Choose wisely!
That’s too tough! I don’t generally get too attached to particular dishes (although I do get the veal tortellini with gorgonzola sauce every time we go to Mr. Martino’s Trattoria), but more so connect with a chef’s style. If they would agree to it, I’d have Mike Solomonov (Zahav, Abe Fisher) and Eli Kulp (Fork, High Street on Market) alternate courses until we cry uncle. I would have to drag Kip Waide out of retirement for a Manhattan to start, and then I would let Kristina pick the wines.
Burke’s kitchen at Morgan’s Pier (221 N. Columbus Blvd., Philadelphia) is open Monday through Friday, 4–10 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m., with brunch until 3 p.m.; phone: (215) 279-7139.
- Food photos: Caviar
- Remaining photos: Morgan's Pier
