In the quiet calm before lunch service began, I spoke with Debbie Tonsey Donnelly, pastry chef at Jake’s & Cooper’s Wine Bar on Main St. in Manayunk, about life, ice cream and the importance of trying a little bit of everything.
Manayunk Dish: How old were you when you decided that making sweets would become your career?
Debbie Tonsey Donnelly: When I was 17, I had my first job at the Night Kitchen Bakery in Chestnut Hill, even though I had decided I wanted to become a writer. Marie, the owner, got me interested in baking. I was in the very first pastry class at the Restaurant School in Philadelphia in 1988. The first restaurant I worked in was Jamie’s, and I started when there was nothing here [on Main St.]. I have seen Manayunk through the decades.
What experiences have you had in baking?
I’ve worked in a bakery, in a hotel, in restaurants and also in catering, and they were all very different. The bakery focused mainly on retail and hotel work was very demanding. Catering was always something I did on the side. I really loved working in a restaurant, though. There was, and is, much more flexibility for me, as I can create my own recipes, ice creams, sauces and garnishes. Everything I do is mise en place which means I prep everything ahead of time before meals are served in the restaurant.
How long have you been at Jake’s & Cooper’s?
I am in my 21st year. The dessert recipes that I make here are all my own, and the owner, Bruce is very flexible. The only thing I have ever made that he wasn’t fond of was Chimay ice cream. He said, “Debbie, it tastes like beer.” He is tough, but that raises the standard.
What is your favorite type of dessert to make and what is your favorite type of dessert to eat?
People remember desserts. It can look beautiful, but my personal philosophy is that it has to taste wonderful. I love to make ice cream. The transformation that occurs when milk, cream and sugar are mixed together is magical. Our house favorite is the chocolate-covered pretzel, but my favorite ice cream that I’ve ever made is salted pecan brownie caramel. Concord grape has been popular, but I’m running out of jam so I won’t be making it much longer! The ginger molasses ice cream that I made recently was a great reminder of why salt is so important when making desserts. I made a batch and it tasted good, but I added a little salt and it went to the next level.
Personally, I love Thanksgiving desserts like pumpkin pie and whipped cream. Also, anything with chocolate. My 11-year-old daughter and I have that in common! I love desserts that remind me of my childhood.
Jake’s and Cooper’s Wine Bar is located at 4365 Main Street in Manayunk. Call for more info at (215) 483-0444.
