How long has it been since the Exton Square Mall has had a sit-down restaurant? Those of us who’ve lived here a while know the answer: too long. After years of standing empty, the former restaurant space on the ground floor of the mall has been remodeled and reopened by Red Star Craft House, an American gastropub with a global flair. Curious about why you should visit Exton’s newest dining spot? We’ve got the scoop!
In good company: The dynamic duo running the show, executive chef Carmen Cappello and general manager Michael Scibilia, may be new to the Dave Magrogan Group, which owns Red Star, but they have a successful history of working together. Last spring they spearheaded the re-opening of the historic Blue Bell Inn, and the camaraderie they developed through that project has gone a long way toward avoiding those “new concept kinks” that often plague upstart restaurants.
Fresh is the word: What’s new and different about Red Star is its commitment to hand-crafted cooking. Virtually every item on the menu is made from scratch, starting with fresh ingredients. The four varieties of jumbo wings are all fresh, never frozen, and brined for two days before cooking. Local products are featured as well, including cheeses from Melvin Stoltzfus’ Roundtop Farm in Honey Brook, nearby Pennsylvania and New Jersey produce and rolls from a bakery in Conshy.
Nibbles and noshes: Don’t skip the starters. Appetizers mimic the main menu’s decidedly Asian, Mediterranean and Southern U.S. flair, with standouts including must-try cheesesteak dumplings drizzled with sriracha ketchup, wasabi aioli and sesame; a mezze plate with garlic cheese flatbread, white bean hummus, herbed feta dip, salsa and olives; and homemade pretzel bites accompanied by spicy beer cheese and malt vinegar dipping sauces.
Fired-up pies: Watch as Red Star’s pizza pros bake up 8- and 12-inch pies and stromboli in the wood-fired oven at the front of the restaurant. Thirteen different artisan varieties—7 red and 6 white—are on offer, including (seen here) the Pigcentric pizza, with pancetta, sausage, coppa, broccoli rabe, provolone and red pepper jam. Note to fans of pork products: this is one life-changing pie.
Hearty handfuls: If you enter Red Star from the parking lot just outside, you’ll be buoyed by the amazing aroma of the in-house smoker. Once inside, treat yourself to the restaurant’s cheesesteak, stuffed with house-smoked and shaved brisket and topped with onions, arugula, smoked cheddar, provolone and rosemary mayo. Juicy burgers are crafted from a special house-made grind of beef and can be served on gluten-free bread upon request.
Delicious fishes: Those seeking out dishes from the sea will not be disappointed. Sampled during my visit were lettuce wraps with shrimp, a colorful dish heaping with Thai-grilled shrimp, carrots, mango and radishes, served with a complementary sweet chili dipping sauce, and nori-crusted tuna salad, a sizable bowl of soba noodles, enoki mushrooms, sprouts, carrots and cashews topped with cooked-just-right tuna and a delightful soy ginger vinaigrette.
All palates welcome: Carmen and Michael were quick to note that they want everyone to feel comfortable and content at Red Star, no matter their dietary preferences or needs. Those who are vegetarian and gluten-free will find plenty of options on the menu, and not just the usual throwaway steamed veggie sides and garden salads. Veggie-lovers will be tempted by edamame dumplings, red quinoa and roasted baby beet salads, tofu tacos and vegetarian sandwiches and sides. Gluten-free diners can order any of Red Star’s pizzas with a gluten-free crust and will find gluten-free dishes in every section of the menu.
Craft beer heaven: The 130-strong beer list is a connoisseur’s dream, with a rotating craft and bottled brew menu that highlights local breweries such as Victory, Tröegs, Yards and Sly Fox but also smaller, more unexpected breweries like Oregon’s Omission Beer, Hawaii’s Kona Brewing Co. and Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing Company. Growlers (32 oz., with 64 oz. to come soon) are available for takeout, with prices based on the beer ordered.
Have that to go: No, you’re not dreaming. There’s actually a wall of takeout beer in the Exton Square Mall now. Feel free to choose from Red Star’s craft beer selection to mix-and-match a six-pack to go. The goal is to eventually offer 200 different retail beers. All of the selections on the Red Star food menu are also available to take home. A catering menu is to come.
Party on the patio: Prediction—Red Star’s outdoor space will be the place to be when the weather warms up next year. The full bar inside will be mirrored outside, with 20 outdoor bar seats in addition to seating for 90+ at tables, full landscaping and an awning to shade it all from the sun. Michael and Carmen hinted at a spring Beer Bash to kick off the patio’s opening. We can’t wait!
Red Star also boasts an experienced service staff, impressive wine list, specialty beer and cold-pressed juice cocktails and killer weekday happy hour specials (read the daily details here), in addition to a private function space to accommodate up to 55 people—including capabilities for multimedia presentations and a variety of menu packages from which to choose.
If all that sounds like Red Star has a little something for everyone, well, it does. The eclectic, universally appealing menu, served in a bustling, light-filled atmosphere, is sure to be a hit with both mall-goers and Exton residents looking for a new place to dine.
Find Red Star Craft House at 146 Exton Square Mall in Exton; phone: (610) 524-5893. Reservations can be made via OpenTable.
Photo credits: Michele Kornegay.
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