Tim Smith, owner of the successfully delicious Twelves Grill and Cafe in West Grove, Pa., wears many hats. Besides donning the countless hats it takes to run a business, he’s also a husband, proud father, race runner (he competed in a Spartan Race last month) and chef.
Putting on the chef hat is one of his favorite things to do. “Being a chef is awesome,” he says with his signature wide grin. PA Eats wanted to know why, so on a pleasant and sunny summer day, we joined Tim on the stone front porch of Twelves to find out. Here’s five reasons being a chef is awesome, straight from the mind of an awesome chef.
1. Being the Master of Your Own Domain
Smith has been around the kitchen block a few times. He’s not new to the scene and has worked in kitchens across Delaware and Pennsylvania. He says the best thing about being a chef/owner is freedom to do what he wants. “No one is telling me, ‘these things can never come off the menu,'” he says. In fact, Smith has so much freedom that he will take requests from diners. If you had a spectacular tuna dish last week, and the chef has the ingredients on hand, he’ll make it for you, even if it’s not on the regular menu. “I’ve never said ‘no’ to a customer as long as we have the ingredients. There’s no rules here. You can even make substitutions!” he laughs. Being the master of his own domain suits Smith. Any guest at his restaurant can see his mark on the place: the color palette, ambiance and restaurant building itself (a stately yet charming former bank) are the perfect backdrop for his modern American cuisine. “I maintain my own level of quality,” he shares. And it shows!
2. Pursuing Your Passion and Using Your Creativity Every Day
Smith’s creativity is on display with his changing, seasonal menu. There’s always tried-and-true regular items offered, like his killer burger with Cochranville, Pa.–raised beef and aged cheddar. But the menu changes every six to eight weeks, offering the diner the opportunity to taste the best of the season and allowing Smith to use his creativity in new ways. ”I get to create every day and I like to think my menu reflects that. One of my favorite ingredients is soft shell crabs, but I like to make them in different ways. Get creative, you know. Sometimes I’ll tempura fry them or pan fry them. However the mood strikes me. There’s no crab imperial here!” he quips with that wide grin. From first bite to dessert, Smith wants you, the diner, to taste his passion and creativity in every minutiae. At Twelves, the chef is in the details.
3. Collaborating with Farmers to Find the Best, Most Inspiring Ingredients
PA Eats is no stranger to Smith’s collaborations with local farmers. In 2012, we traveled with him to North Creek Nurseries to hand-pick produce for his locally inspired dishes. Since then, Smith’s love of local ingredients has only grown. As a chef, Smith gets to establish relationships with farmers and, more importantly, knows where his food comes from. One relationship he has kept since the early days of Twelves is with Elizabeth at Swallow Hill Farm. Swallow Hill is a husband-and-wife-owned farm that sells produce at their farmstand and strictly to Twelves. ”I respect the ingredients and specifically I respect the farmers,” Smith points out. “These core relationships with farmers are one of my favorite things about being a chef.”
4. Working with a Stellar Team
In the beginning years of the restaurant, Smith admits to never taking a night off. True to his form, he sought perfection in the food and management of the restaurant. But now, thanks to a stellar team, he can take the occasional night off. ”As a chef/owner I think about my staff a lot,” he says. “We have a meeting every day at 4:45. We discuss reservations, specials, where the oysters are from. I want my staff to be knowledgeable.” And the staff IS knowledgable. Front of house are more than friendly—they are seamless servers with a keen mind for food. Even the cheese plate gets special care. “We go over the cheese plate. The staff knows what’s on it and where each cheese comes from and how it it tastes,” Smith explains with pride. As an aside, he adds, “And the kitchen toasts baguette to order. There’s no dry, old crackers on my cheese plate.” Because of his great staff, Twelves now offers dinner service on Sundays from 5–8 p.m. The community loves the expanded hours as well as each day’s lunch and dinner service. Smith elaborates, “I work with my guys to make sure everything’s done right and in a timely manner. Pacing the food is important. Everything goes out within 10 minutes of when fired.” So whether you want to enjoy a quick lunch or a leisurely dinner with appetizers, a cheese plate and dessert, the staff at Twelves has got you covered.
5. Making People Happy Every Single Day
One of the first things you see when you walk into Twelves is the kitchen pass. Smith loves his open kitchen because he can see guests walk in. “There’s nothing like seeing a regular, having them wave and say, ‘Hey, Tim!'” he beams. “I love my customers.” Smith loves his customers so much, he’s willing to go the extra mile for them, especially when he knows their favorite dishes. He explains, “I have one customer that comes in for soft shell crabs or scallops. She’ll email me to make sure I have it or I’ll give her a call to let her know. The regulars might be the best part about being a chef. We make the food, see the smile and respect from the customers. People roll back in the kitchen and thank us. I get to make people happy every day.” If you’re ever over at Twelves, make sure to stop at the pass and say hello to the chef. He’ll be there smiling and happily cooking the next course for a lucky diner.
Smith loves what he does so much that he doesn’t require validation to keep going, but after seeing his passion for the business and food, it’s no wonder validation keeps on coming anyway. Twelves was voted Best Farm to Table by Main Line Today, a much-deserved accolade for an inspiring chef. ”I love what I do,” Smith says. And it shows, chef.
Find Twelves Grill & Cafe at 10 Exchange Place in West Grove; phone: (610) 869-4020.
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