There is a revolutionary movement changing the restaurant scene. Call it passion. Call it the practice of craftsmanship. But, there is a real trend that propels chefs and cooks into kitchens, often with little to no pay, yet yielding a great sacrifice of time, planning and effort. Pop-up restaurants are that trend.
Take the skill of a young chef, perhaps the culinary force behind Boxcar Brewpub, and mix it with a desire to stir interest in craftily produced food. Thus, West Chester’s Del Fresco Pop-Up is born.
These pop-up restaurants are exactly that: a showcase of culinary firepower by the hooligans who staff kitchens and don’t often get an opportunity to jump out front of an audience. Andrew Cini grabbed the basement space on Market Street in downtown West Chester just over a month ago. In that time, the 26-year-old chef has taken his drive, the produce from Central Market and one goal—get his food out there—to create the pop-up. With the planning complete, Cini gave light to Del Fresco on September 28 and 29.
In the radiant and tiny lower level of the Impero Maya grocery store, Cini offered a craftily constructed tapas array that showcased his range of cooking skills. A genuine grassroots effort, Cini helped buy the tables, borrowed kitchen space and employed friends and family to get legs under the project. The first for the area, the pop-up gives credence to talented cooks and chefs taking a hand at running an honestly food-centric opportunity.
Cini showed his worth with calculated plays on shrimp ceviche tacos, vichyssoise and seared bok choy. With a purely menu-driven operation, Cini captured his feel for the food and folded in the daunting adventure of being an owner/operator.
“We are going to do more of these,” said the confident Cini. “[We’re] looking at Chaddsford Winery as a great location” for the next adventure. With spirited intent and culinary chops to back it, pop-ups are the canvas for which clever and creative food can be splashed without the havoc necessary to keep all of the moving parts going for a traditional restaurant.
Be sure to follow Cini’s pop-up on Facebook for up-to-the-minute news on his next underground dinner—plus more.
Photos: Jim Berman, Ed Williams
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