Wegmans, the supermarket enterprise whose 92 stores span six states, has begun a cheese revolution of sorts with recent developments in its specialty cheese offerings.
In 2014, Wegmans opened its own Affinage Cheese Cave facility in New York, the first supermarket ever to do so. This state-of-the-art facility is home to seven high-tech “cave” rooms, each controlled to perfectly match the temperatures and humidity of European cheese-ripening caves.
What’s more, Wegmans has brought on full-time Affineur (professional cheese ager) Mathieu Callol, who was trained in his native France, earning degrees in Dairy Production and Biotechnology, and has years of experience with renowned European cheesemakers. He acts as inventor, artisan, technician and quality control for the 60 cheeses in total that come through Wegmans’ Cheese Cave facility, all of which are either a soft-ripened or washed rind variety.
Within these caves, Callol is aging, massaging, washing and ripening cheese to perfection. And these are the cheeses in your neighborhood Wegmans.
European Model with Local Partners
Wegmans’ establishment of its own cheese caves essentially breaks apart the cheese production process, displaying a turn toward European models and practices. Cathy Gaffney, VP of Specialty Cheeses, Deli and Kosher Deli for Wegmans, explains that the cheese industry in Europe consists of “three distinct, keyed-in crafts.” There’s milk production, cheese making and cheese aging, all complicated and difficult.
By honing in expertly on the third step, Wegmans controls the finished product. Gaffney explains the primary reason for building the caves: “We wanted to bring perfectly ripened cheeses to our customers.” To that end, Wegmans partners with smaller scale farms who provide the unfinished, or “green,” cheeses that are needed. This includes farmers and cheesemakers in both Europe and the United States, who can rely on the guaranteed pre-orders from Wegmans, which in turn allows them to focus on their craft and grow their businesses.
Gaffney says, “The goal is to bring those cheeses in while they’re young and finish them.” This ripening is done in a small format with a very specific style and typically takes from 2–4 weeks.
The entire cheese production process, however, takes “18 months from concept to hitting the shelves” and is highly collaborative, according to Gaffney. She explains that there’s a lot of back and forth conversation about planning, production, amounts of milk, amounts of cheese, time of year and so on.
The partnerships allow Wegmans to create distinct and perfectly ripened cheeses while connecting internationally and stimulating local economies. “It’s been really fun. I love what we do,” Gaffney says.
Two Cheeses for the Season
The two superstar cheeses for the winter season are the Hudson Valley jEWEl, its name a nod to its wooly origins, and Winter In Italy, which arrived in New York as Bella Langa, a green cheese from Italy.
The Hudson Valley jEWEl is sourced from Old Chatham Sheepherding Creamery in New York, with which Gaffney shares a long history. “We’ve been working with Old Chatham for 15 years,” she says, adding that owner David Galton was once her professor at Cornell University and that they’ve since had many opportunities to work together in their respective roles.
The jEWEl is a soft, creamy cheese similar to Camembert, specifically designed for the winter season. It’s a 4-oz. square-shaped cheese that pairs exceptionally well with Pinot Noirs such as old world Louis Latour Bourgogne’s Cuvée Latour and Oregon’s Ballard Road.
Winter In Italy is a shareable, hearty cheese that was designed to pair well with dirty martinis or sparkling wines, in keeping with the flavors of the winter season. The rind was hand washed with juniper berry extract, giving it herbal, grassy hints that perfectly complement its decadent creaminess.
These two remarkable cheeses, available in Wegmans stores now, bring a bit of luxury to any winter cheese plate.
Furthering Partnerships
As for future specialty cheese endeavors, the possibilities are nearly endless. Gaffney and her team will continue to work with their current cheesemaking partners, which also includes Vermont Creamery and Jasper Hill Farm. They’ll also branch out and forge new collaborations as time goes on.
In addition, Wegmans Pubs provide exclusive access to the cheeses, where, Gaffney says, “Our customers are literally the first to try them.” They’d like to continue creating partnerships with local brewing companies, such as Stone Brewing and Brooklyn Brewery, to create special beer and cheese pairing menus. Until January 28, many Wegmans Pub locations are offering For the Love of Cheese & Beer events, with additional paired seasonal menus to emerge over the course of the year.
Approachable Gourmet
Known as much as a grocery store as a purveyor of gourmet goods, Wegmans is committed to providing products of premium quality.
Gaffney urges those interested in cheese to feel comfortable approaching the specialty cheese section. “We bring in what we see the clients want,” she explains. Develop your own fine cheese palate by tasting some in your nearest Wegmans today!
- Photos: Wegmans
One Comment