Each time I walked through Kennett Square this summer, I peeked through the windows of the vacant storefront on State Street. A paper banner declared, “Coming Soon Byrsa Bistro,” and I was left to imagine what type of restaurant this was going be. When I received an email from the owner inviting me to visit, I quickly replied and arranged to stop in for lunch.
Ahmed Chraga stood outside Byrsa Bistro and greeted me with an enthusiastic smile. After eleven months of renovations, it was obvious he was excited to have the restaurant up and running. He led me into the space and gave me a tour, and then we sat down for a private sampling of some of the beautiful dishes Ahmed and his chefs have developed for the menu.
Byrsa Bistro reflects the roots of Ahmed’s Western Mediterranean heritage. The walls are painted a vibrant butterscotch, with handmade Tunisian tiles inlaid as a border. Several of the tables tops are made out of tree trunks that have been sliced thin and lacquered. A Tromp L’oil of a bright blue traditional Tunisian door tricks the eye. The overall effect of the wooden floors and the Mediterranean colors is one of rustic charm.
“I wanted it to feel bright, like you were dining outside,” Ahmed said as he led me through the main dining room. “We can seat fifty people.” He cites the influences on the decor and dishes as being not just his homeland of Tunisia, but also Morocco, France, and Spain.
As Ahmed and I chatted, Chef Jay brought out samples of the cuisine for us to try. Our first plate featured hummus, tabouli and a third sampling which consisted of lentil, rice, and fresh cabbage with lemon juice and olive oil.
The second plate delivered consisted of three samplings of the salads they will be serving. Each salad was unique and flavorful.
The Cypress Salad consisted of romaine, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, red onions and olives, with roasted peppers, feta cheese and a Tzatziki dressing.
The Byrsa Salad had warm roasted portabello, grilled onions, toasted almond, croutons, crumbled goat cheese and a balsamic vinaigrette.
The apple cranberry salad consisted of an organic mix of greens with roasted walnuts, apples, dried cranberry goat cheese, and a house cranberry dressing.
Next up, we sampled the duck confit (seen below, to left). The duck leg was served with dijon mustard and cornichons, which are a form of gherkin cucumbers that have been pickled. The spice of the dijon and the pickles together with the duck was a tasteful combination.
My favorite of the sampling was the scallops entree (seen above, to right). My dish consisted of a beautiful large pan seared scallop set on a bed of mashed potatoes with a tomato crab sauce and a side of asparagus. This scallop was tremendous in size and the flavors of the tomato crab sauce and the mashed potatoes was heavenly. The entree will consist of three of these oversized scallops.
We also sampled the braised lamb shank. Served over white beans and spinach with a demi-glaze sauce. This lamb was tender and delectable.
With our coffee, Ahmed served a sampling of two desserts. Liz Marden is making the opera cake. The flourless chocolate cake was extremely rich and a nice way to end our sampling.
Ahmed had previously owned a sandwich shop in Media and before that he had worked in real estate. I asked him how he came to choose Kennett Square for Byrsa Bistro. Ahmed listed a number of towns he had researched before settling on this location. “I like the classic towns, that’s why I chose Kennett.” He has been thrilled with the help and encouragement he’s received from other business owners during the process.
Throughout our relaxed two hour lunch, passers by stopped and peered into the restaurant. Ahmed felt compelled to get up and hand each person a menu, explaining they would be open for dinner and lunch was starting the next day.
Ahmed’s approach has been to open slow so they can build. He has been open for dinner this past week and letting word spread throughout town. He plans on serving a few exotic dishes such as grilled calamari. Chicken liver, pate and foie gras. He hopes to offer a classic brunch menu on Sundays with french toast made with baguettes and french crepes. He has no plans to apply for a liquor license. “BYOB is my style,” he said. “I just want to provide a good food experience,” he said with a smile. And with that, another person was peering in the window and he was up to greet them.
Byrsa Bistro will be open Tuesday to Thursday from 11am to 8:30pm; Friday from 11am to 9:30pm; Saturday from 9am to 9:30pm; and Sunday from 9am to 8pm. They are located at 102 East State Street in Kennett Square and are reachable by phone at 610-532-3424. You can also follow them on Facebook and Twitter.
