Hidden away in a grove of trees on Orchard Lane, just off busy Route 1 south of Longwood Gardens, is one of the most remarkable dining experiences in the country, and perhaps the best kept dining secret in Chester County. Chef Gary Trevisani is an artist who creates farm-to-table, new American cuisine in the French style.
Throughout our relaxing two-hour meal, we found ourselves delighted and surprised by his dishes. From the visual artistry on the plate to the wonderful combination of textures and flavors on our palates, Trevisani’s approach invited us to slow down and savor. Perhaps this is the reason that Open Table named The Orchard one of the Top 50 Restaurants for American Cuisine in 2010.
As we entered the restaurant, Trevisani greeted us warmly and led us to our table in a beautifully simple and elegant room. The first surprise was to see walls as blank as a canvas, no artwork, just a round window that anchors the space. Comfortable cushioned benches lined the walls. Light music, modern and fresh, played throughout. Recessed lighting and candlelight created a striking balance in this contemporary setting. White linen tablecloths and beautiful stemware sat awaiting our BYO wine.
After reviewing the menu, which the chef changes with the seasons, and placing our order, we sipped our wine and marveled at the surroundings. As we discussed the simplistic beauty of the room, our waiter appeared with a ceviche sampling to “open our palate” for the dining experience ahead.
On our plates were laid out three ceviche bites – grilled duck, beef, and halibut. A small sipping glass held a decadent broccoli cream sauce. This was beautifully prepared and set the tone of the evening.
I started with Butternut Squash Soup, which was silky smooth and topped with toasted walnuts. My date tried the Wild Mushroom and Chevre Tart. This was a beautiful dish, custardy, quiche-like with goat cheese and wild mushrooms.
For our salad course, I enjoyed the Confit of Duck Salad, which also contained mesclun greens, local pears, blue cheese, roasted walnuts in a walnut oil vinaigrette. The saltiness of the walnuts paired with the duck and blue cheese made each bite a wonder.
After the salads, the waiter delivered a lime and coriander sorbet. After the initial lime flourish, the coriander added a sublime finish. Again, the combination provided a delightful surprise and left us yearning for more.
My main course was the Filet Mignon “A La Bourgogne.” Beautifully displayed, the filet appeared to be topped with two button mushrooms. Upon slicing them open, I was surprised to find they were actually sweet Cipolini onions. The filet, from Lancaster, was beautifully prepared, served with a celery root puree, haricot vert, and lardons. The burgundy reduction sauce was decadent.
My date ordered the Veal Tenderloin, served with a tangy herbed risotto and local Miatake mushroom ragout. The veal was from Bucks County. The bite I enjoyed was excellent.
As the night unfolded, and each artfully crafted dish was served, our appreciation of the simple decor and the canvas walls grew. At the Orchard, the fine art is on the plate.
The variety of dessert menu was impressive. We opted to share the Tasting of Chocolate. After ordering dessert, another surprise was delivered. Two bite size scoops of home made caramels. The waiter informed us this was to cleanse our palette in preparation for the dessert.
The Tasting of Chocolate was set out on a long tray as a final piece of art. A small cup of the most surprising hot chocolate, a small scoop of what may be the best chocolate ice cream I’ve ever tasted, a white chocolate brulee, a rich hazelnut chocolate nugget, and a chocolate financier, which is a rum butter cake nugget were all aligned elegantly. We relaxed and savored each of the chocolates.
After our meal, Chef Trevisani took a few moments to chat with us. He has a relaxed manner, and it’s obvious he delights in talking about his passion for fine dining, and his theory that “food should be nothing less than a gift presented at the table.”
He explained how he bought the Orchard a little over three years ago after spending twenty-three years at The Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. He was the Director of Culinary Arts for much of his tenure there and led yearly study trips to France. He said he knew he wanted to cook since he was sixteen years old. “My mom taught me my palette,” he said. “The new American cuisine is really French food. We’re about European dining. I tell my staff we’re in the entertainment business.”
When I asked about the Cipolini onions, he smiled. “I like to play with the look of it. We are in the heart of mushroom country!” He explained that he sources local produce whenever possible, from mushrooms to the cuts of veal and beef. His foie gras comes from a farm in the Hudson Valley of New York.
“If you are simply going out to eat, this may not be your place. If you are going out to dine however…,” he said with a grin.
As we chatted, Gary was asked to step back in the kitchen and he excused himself. A few moments later, the waiter delivered a plate that contained two spice cookies and two spiced truffles. Yet another delightful surprise to finish our truly remarkable night.
In addition to ordering off the menu, The Orchard offers three tasting menus for your consideration. A five-course tasting menu is $75 per person, the seven course is $95 per person and the grand nine-course menu is $125. Chef Gary recommends those interested in the tasting menu let him know when reservations are made.
The Orchard is open Tuesday through Friday, beginning at 6 pm, and on Saturdays at 5 pm. Remember, it is a BYOB. The Orchard is located at 503 Orchard Avenue in Kennett Square and is available by phone at 610-388-1100.
