By Jim Breslin
Sometimes you want a getaway that’s more relaxing than adventurous.
We recently traveled to the National Harbor, just south of Washington DC and spent two nights in the prestigious Gaylord Hotel. This is not your typical hotel. We were looking for a relaxing atmosphere in which we could chill out, read by the pool, eat a few good meals.
When we checked in, the friendly desk clerk asked our preferences. We had reserved a room with a balcony overlooking the atrium. He asked if we wanted to be on a lower floor or an upper floor and we asked to be placed up high. He found us a room in the center of the 16th floor with a spectacular view. Our balcony overlooked a stunning atrium, and beyond, a twenty-one story wall of glass showcased the Potomac River.
The Gaylord Hotel caters many conferences through the year. Off to one side of the hotel are giant conference rooms. While we were there, they were hosting conferences for CVS Pharmacies and Gallo Winery. This meant that the hotel was relatively quiet during the day, but when the events ended around dinnertime, the hotel’s bars and restaurants came alive. The Gaylord has several dining options under one vast roof — National Pastime Sports Bar and Grill serves craft beers and excellent nachos, Pienza is an open space under the atrium serving buffet breakfast, and the Old Hickory Steakhouse is a stunning formal restaurant serving fine steaks, wines and cigars, with an outdoor cigar gazebo.
The National Harbor is relatively new, having opened in 2008. The local area consists of a convention center, six hotels, a variety or restaurants and shops and condominiums. Being outside DC, they have shops where you can pick up bumper stickers or t-shirts to support your favorite political candidate — or to trash the opposition’s candidate if you choose. While not everyone agrees on politics, I’m sure we all agree that Peeps are delicious — and there is a full-fledged Peeps Store which sells the sugary chick goodness and other candies, t-shirts and more. Up on the hill nearby, Cirque du Soleil had their tents set up for shows. Each year in November, the Gaylord Hotel hosts an ice sculpting exhibition. They also host an annual Beatles festival.
After reading the Washington Post’s Guide for the National Harbor, we wandered through Fleet Street and found our way to McLoone’s Pier House, which the Post had recommended as the best place to watch the sunset. Over a few martinis and half-price appetizers, we enjoyed the sun setting over the Potomac through the partly cloudy sky. We dined on the Kingston Wings, which were jerk seasoned and finished off on the grill and served with a delectable sweet pineapple sauce. This was just what we were looking for, relaxing on a beautiful cool September night.
On our second day, after relaxing by the pool for a few hours, we hopped the ferry over to Alexandria, Virginia and explored Old Town. We stood on the bow and took in the river breeze during the thirty minute ride and docked in Virginia. The main district, along King Street, houses an array of shops, restaurants and bars to check out. Oh, I also duly noted three ice cream shops sat within a block of each other!
We stopped in Murphy’s Grand Irish Pub along King Street for happy hour. This true down and dirty pub appeared to be the party place for a bunch of cadets, who sat at pulled together tables tipping back the pints. We grabbed seats at the bar and enjoyed some very cheap happy hour pints and an appetizer of artichoke dip. On the wall behind the bar, thousands of sheriff patches have been pinned up to honor law enforcement officers. I would have sworn this bar had been standing for centuries, but it turns out Murphy’s opened in 1978.
Heading back towards the port, we stopped in at the trendy Mai Thai for some Thai food. This is a cool looking modern restaurant and bar set behind the Old Town brick facade. We chose to sit inside, but their outdoor area was popular on this night. Knowing the ice cream shops were nearby for relief, I ordered the super hot Chicken Kapow. Chicken sauteed with ground chili, garlic, and thai basil leaves and a special sauce which had cooling coconut. It always surprises me how the heat and the coconut blends together.
For ice cream, the choice was tough. Two ice cream shops sat directly across from each other on King Street. Around the corner, a Ben and Jerry’s beckoned. We opted for Pop’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream Company, where they had a flurry of flavors — including one they simply called “Cavity.” I chose the chilling chocolate chip mint in a nice crunchy waffle cone. We found our way back to the dock and enjoyed the view while we ate. When a young couple came up and asked, “where did you get the ice cream?” I had to laugh and informed them they had plenty of options.
After a beautiful ferry ride back in the dark, in which we could see the Gaylord all lit up and looking magnificent from the water, we stopped in the Belvedere hotel lounge and enjoyed a nightcap. At this time of night, the overstuffed chairs of the hotel bar were busy with conference attendees chatting and drinking, looking semi-formal.
The next morning, we relaxed with our coffee on the balcony for as long as possible before checking out of the Gaylord Hotel with a renewed vigor, ready to return to reality.
