When PA Eats gave me the green light to write an article about pairing beer with cheese, I immediately conjured an ambitious idea of writing the definitive guide to local cheese and bottle shops. Images of traditional pairings like Barleywine with Stilton Blue, Saison with Brie or Camembertt and American Pale Ale with Manchego or Cheddar danced through my mind as I began my plan of attack for this zealous (or possibly over-zealous) endeavor. I had no idea that my first stop on the research tour would completely derail my master plan in the most fabulous and enlightening way while at the same time humbling me and fanning the flames of my ever-growing passion for cheese.
So, as I pulled my little Honda Fit into the parking lot of the 320 Market Café in Swarthmore, I still believed that this was merely my first stop of many.
The 320 Market Café is much more than just a cheese and bottle shop. Upon entering, the scent of fresh produce and bread greeted me, invited me in and lead me through an aisle of local and seasonal vegetables to a case filled with mouth-watering prepared foods and yet another case filled with a selection of cheeses from local to import to obscure. And all of this before I even reached the impressive bottle shop that boasts hundreds of bottles and 16 taps of fine craft beer. This little café/bottle shop/farmers market/Italian market/cheese shop is a must visit for any foodie or beer enthusiast. I was immediately in heaven. It is no surprise that 1000 satisfied customers visit the café on the average Saturday.
I met up with co-owner Dave Cunicelli who walked me through the basics of his shop as well as his resume, which includes 12 years in the cheese business. Dave has always been a wine enthusiast and has been pairing wine with cheese for many years. Since acquiring a license to sell beer, he has quickly become passionate about the marriage of cheese and beer as well. There is no shortage of fervor for his business, which starts with cheese and expands to all manner of palate-pleasing delicacies that offer every guest of the 320 Market Café a chance to experience utter enjoyment.
Dave then introduced me to café employee and cheese specialist Kathy Kachelries, who would be my guide as I sampled some of the tasty cheeses and brews. I immediately realized that, like Dave, Kathy was extremely knowledgeable and passionate about cheese. I was among experts and knew that to attempt a more definitive beer and cheese pairing guide than the ever-changing menu at the 320 Market Café would be folly. Why reinvent the wheel? But enough with my cheesy jokes. Let me walk you through my tasting experience.
Top Pairings at 320 Market Café
Pairing One: 21st Amendment Sneak Attack Saison with Valley Shepherd Califon Tomme
First up was 21st Amendment Sneak Attack Saison paired with Valley Shepherd Califon Tomme. I was already familiar with saisons and thus well-prepared for the earthy, grassy hoppiness and light, dry spice that is common in the style. Sneak Attack even had a unique mild ginger that set it apart from many other saisons.
But I had very little knowledge of a Tomme-style cheese which Kathy explained was a rustic, French home-style cheese made with raw cow’s and sheep’s milk. The Tomme had a mild flavor with light, earthy notes, a pleasant nutty quality and a touch of faint caramel all of which complimented the earthy and spicy notes of the Sneak Attack nicely. The Tomme was fairly creamy on the palate and the effervescence of the Sneak Attack served to wash away the cheese, cleansing the palate for the next bite while leaving a lingering hint of ginger that was both crisp and refreshing. I could have gone on eating the Tomme and washing it down with Sneak Attack for the rest of the afternoon, but it was on to round two.
Pairing Two: Lavery Brewing’s Strawberry Berliner Weisse with Harbison by Jasper Hill Farm
Kathy’s next offering was Lavery Brewing‘s Strawberry Berliner Weisse paired with Harbison by Jasper Hill Farm. Lavery’s Strawberry Berliner, brewed in Erie, PA, smelled of fresh strawberries and packed a flavor that was slightly less tart than the average Berliner Weisse while delivering light sweet strawberry and a hint of funkiness before a fresh, fruity finish. As I sipped on the refreshing brew, Kathy gave me some background information on the chosen cheese pairing.
Jasper Hill Farm, which boasts a 22,000-foot cave-aging facility for their cheeses, describes Harbison as “a bark-wrapped bloomy-rind cheese with woodsy, sweet, herbal and bright flavors.” I couldn’t describe it better myself. This soft wheel of Brie was lovingly wrapped with spruce bark from the Jasper Hill property, imparting a piney and woody flavor that just peeked through the light herbs, faint, tangy sweetness and mild funkiness. The cheese was complex and tasty enough to stand alone but the funkiness of the cheese was a great match to the funkiness of the brew and the fresh strawberry finish of the Berliner Weisse really seemed to complete the cheese by enhancing the earthy and woody flavors and refreshing the palate. Although neither of the components of this pairing required the other, they certainly perfected one another.
Pairing Three: Stone Brewing’s Old Guardian Barleywine with La Casearia Carpenedo’s Blu 61
The third and final sampling of the day paired Stone Brewing‘s Old Guardian Barleywine with La Casearia Carpenedo‘s Blu 61. As Kathy presented round three, I secretly wondered if this pairing could possibly top the previous two. My excitement for this course was slightly muted as Old Guardian is a Barleywine that I generally find to be too hop-forward and excessively boozy for my taste. But I do love a nice blue cheese, so when Kathy explained that the Blu 61 had a wine-washed rind that was coated with wine-soaked cranberries, my enthusiasm was restored and my curiosity piqued.
The Old Guardian was as I remembered it; quite hoppy, earthy and a bit hot with booziness. The Blu 61, however, was nothing short of a mouthful of heaven. The cheese itself was oozing with delightful funky pasture notes and a bit of saltiness while the wine-washed rind and cranberries lent a desserty sweetness that created an amazing balance between very intense and diverse flavors. Though I was hesitant to add the Old Guardian to the mix, I gave it the old college try and, much to my surprise, the result was nothing short of phenomenal. The pasture and salty flavors from the cheese cut right through the hop forward and boozy notes of the brew while the wine notes and cranberry highlighted the malts present in the beer beautifully. The Blu 61 had transformed the Old Guardian into a delectable fruity and caramely dessert Barleywine worthy of the highest praise. If the first two pairings of the day were perfect, this pairing was simply masterful and a true work of art.
I couldn’t have been more delighted with my experience at the 320 Market Café. Dave and Kathy truly displayed an amazing talent and understanding for the tasting of beer and cheese. I look forward to future visits so that I might try as many of their expert pairings as possible. Before parting ways, Dave explained to me that he is gearing up to offer monthly classes on beer and cheese pairing. I simply can’t wait for these to start up! Keep an eye on their website for the announcement of dates and times for these classes, as they are sure to enhance your love and appreciation of fine craft beer and cheese.
Find 320 Market Café at 713 Chester Road in Swarthmore; phone: (610) 328-7211.
Photography credited to Nina Lea Photography.
