The hills of southern Chester County are alive with authentic Mexican hot spots, upscale BYOBs, fill-your-growler craft breweries and well-crafted farm-to-table eateries. So imagine our surprise when we discovered that one of the area’s original restaurant staples was making a comeback. That’s right—The Brown Derby has risen once again to take its rightful place in Toughkenamon (a short jaunt south of Kennett Square), and chef-about-town Ray Maxwell is steering this millinery miracle back into the hearts (and stomachs) of the local community.
The Brown Derby was a well-known fixture in the community for over 80 years, doling out classic Italian fare while evolving into a favorite hangout for the prime rib, lobster and pasta crowd. Time had eventually taken its toll on the menu and the interior of the place when chef Ray and a group of partners bought and resurrected the interior into a casual dining stop called Fire Hill Pub.
After a two-year run at juggling the newly refurbished Fire Hill Pub as well as Chef-atopia—his successful line of take-out gourmet dinners located at the Market at Liberty Place in Kennett Square—chef Ray kept hearing folks say how they really missed the Brown Derby’s classic yet casual style. “I wanted to focus on the restaurant business more as well,” says Ray—touting experience at local spots Maxwell Creeds, the Chadds Ford Inn, Mendenhall Inn and Dilworthtown Inn—so he closed up shop in Kennett to move forward.
Say no more as the original sign made its welcome reappearance on Old Baltimore Pike and the new and improved Brown Derby was back in business. “I wanted to bring back a bit of the old-school fine dining feel with white tablecloths, fresh flowers and well-attended service in the dining rooms,” chef Ray emphasizes, “as well as blend aspects of the original Derby’s menu with my personal upscale and modern twist.”
The newspaper-sized menu spells that out simplistically with appetizers (the obligatory but delicious fried oyster and mushroom dish); soups (award-winning mushroom of course—but we recommend mixing it up with the hold-your-breath three-onion bowl topped with Jarlsberg cheese); seafood (everything from crab cakes to lobster tempura); aged steaks (with a choice of house-made sauces); chops and king and queen cut prime rib. A standout section of the menu highlights Derby favorites that include a solid mix of pastas, poultries and an exceptional burgundy-braised short rib dish at $18.
“Derby” wings are presented at the bar as a full pound of jumbos coated in assorted sauces (we say yes to “moonshine” BBQ) at $12 with a half-price Tuesday special. Desserts are made in-house and on-the-fly with the typical creme brulee and an odd-shaped but amazing bread pudding.
The oversized bar (almost doubled from the original Derby) dominates the right side of the interior, as half walls, dimmed lighting and warm earthtones keep the dining areas intimate. Cocktails are straightforward with throwback martinis and manhattans a la James Bond. Seven taps of beer pour standard Miller Lite, Pabst, Yuengling lager and a few craft brews and bottles to keep the hipsters happy.
On average, prices run $6 for soups, $17 for fish and chips and $18 for the Derby sirloin. Service is prompt, smiling and aiming to please.
A diverse mix of locals, families, date night couples as well as seniors seem enthused that the place didn’t turn into one of the yawnable chains.
The Brown Derby is open for dinner nightly (closed Sunday and Monday). Lunch is served Thursday through Saturday from 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and a classic Sunday brunch (bennys, prime rib, steak and eggs and waffles) is on the menu from 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Entertainment (lounge, jazz and blues) heightens the ambience on Thursday through Saturday from 7–10 p.m.
With plenty of parking in the rear, The Brown Derby is located at 1470 Baltimore Pike in Toughkenamon; phone: (610) 268-8252.
- Photos: Ed Williams
