Have you heard they’ve added a second story to Bucktown?
To be more specific: What used to be the long-running Coventry Tea Room, in the tiny village of Bucktown, is now Tony Joe’s Taproom & House of Great Eats, a casual lunch and dinner spot featuring an eclectic menu, a funky vibe and a revolving beer selection produced exclusively by 2nd Story Brewing Company, which is based in Philadelphia.
The Story
Chef Anthony DiStefano and his wife, Rebecca, have brought new life to a historic (early-1800s) former home, after recognizing there’s a dearth of beer-focused restaurants serving good food in this part of northernmost Chester County. The couple, who are locals themselves (both are graduates from nearby Owen J. Roberts High School), opened Tony Joe’s in May of this year to fulfill their dreams of becoming independent restaurateurs. “It’s about the community,” Chef DiStefano explains, “and giving it a place where people of any age can call their own.”
Anthony has an impressive kitchen lineage including stints at Sullivan’s Steakhouse and at Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant; he was the executive chef for the Marshalton Inn/Four Dogs Tavern and a corporate chef at Exton’s Riverstone Café as well.
The Location & the Look
The mailing address reads “Pottstown,” but the restaurant is actually south of the borough line, in the tiny unincorporated village of Bucktown, which is situated along Route 23 (Ridge Road), a quarter mile west of Route 100 (Pottstown Pike).
Just like that quirky name (Tony Joe’s Taproom and House of Great Eats—it’s quite the mouthful!), the British colonial-era structure now imparts more to its aesthetics since its days as a dainty tea room, with Rebecca’s background in design being notably evident. The two-foot thick plaster walls in the main dining room have been painted in smoky gray and mulberry tones and a miscellany of retro-paraphernalia is interspersed throughout the 30-seat space, like an old Coke clock, a framed Batman comic book (circa-1956) and laminated tabletops with kitschy designs. Atop them (amid mismatched silverware) are old lunchboxes featuring the likes of C3PO, Darth Vader and Beavis & Butthead. The fireplace cover is decorated with old car emblems.
Meanwhile, the entranceway opens into the taproom, which is, possibly, the smallest bar in Chester County. Just five stools line its counter and there’s just enough room for five more seats within the confines of the intimate space. With a bluesy soundtrack playing in the background and a friendly bartender slinging 2nd Story’s finest ales and lagers, making new friends is pretty much assured during each drinking session at Tony Joe’s.
A small covered gazebo, a side deck and a couple of picnic tables bring refreshing alfresco elements to the scene here on the cusp of the countryside.
The Food
At first glance, the all-day menu seems built with speed and comfort in mind: pizzas, cheesesteaks, hoagies, burgers, chicken wings, grilled sandwiches, salads and hearty homemade dinners are all several flavor notches above the norm, with specialty sandwiches like The Bucktown Mafia (BBQ chicken cheesesteak, mozzarella sticks, onion rings, honey mustard, mayo, and topped with ranch dressing) and The Cartel (Buffalo chicken cheesesteak, jalapeno poppers, onion rings, honey mustard, mayo, and topped with blue cheese) gaining a local following. Both sandwich mashups are served on Italian rolls from Conshohocken Bakery.
But one look at the nightly specials board lets diners know that Chef DiStefano isn’t just showboating by calling his venture a “House of Great Eats.” Four to five daily inspirations elevate the fare to reflect his culinary talents. One evening it might be Jamaican jerk double-cut bone-in pork chop “Chicago-style” with homemade sweet potato and mango salsa or pan-roasted New York strip steak with a caramelized shallot compound butter served with roasted fingerling potatoes and fresh basil. Or, maybe, pan-seared striped bass accompanied by wild rice pilaf and green beans with a candied lemon zest lemon beurre blanc sauce or homemade chicken and spinach Florentine.
“We put as much effort into French fries as we do rock bass filet,” Chef Anthony proudly proclaims, “and we source our ingredients locally whenever possible.” Meats are culled from local butcher Kolb’s. Much of the produce comes from CSAs and area farms.
The Beer
As stated, 2nd Story Brewing Company’s craft beers are the lone offering at Tony Joe’s. For now the restaurant pours 16 ounce quaffs (no growler refills) with three or four styles on tap.
All are drinkable and refreshing: the Golden Rye is a spicy German lager and the Invictus Saison has a summery sweetness imbued within its malty overtones. Jigsaw Imperial IPA lends tropical notes to its hoppy (but not overpowering) intensity. W(heat) Index is citrusy and seasonal.
Note: Patrons may bring their own wine or spirits.
The Service
Far from an afterthought, the service here is all smiles, thanks to a young and attentive staff. In fact, they seem to have adopted a “We’re a family” approach—and it shows. Anthony’s philosophy mirrors this sentiment. “Here, the dishwasher is just as important as the chef.”
The Summation
Going beyond the simple sub shop canon by taking bar food up a level and then amping up the culinary creativity even more through a short list of delicious daily specials, this roadside tappy is quickly gaining a following as a place to go for super-friendly service and 2nd Story suds, all within the heart of tiny Bucktown.
Hours of operation are Tuesday through Sunday, 11 a.m.–9 p.m. (closed Monday).
Find Tony Joe’s Taproom & House of Great Eats at 1161 Ridge Rd. in Pottstown; phone: (610) 469-6419.
- Photos: Ken Alan
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