Biga (pronounced BEE-gah) Pizza & Beer is poised to be a solid Bryn Mawr eatery. This new hip spot by owner Sean Weinberg (of Malvern’s Restaurant Alba) takes the authentic Italian staple (and more) up a notch—one stunning plate at a time—and I had an exclusive Town Dish preview.
Tossing out smiles as easily as directions to the new staff, Sean discussed the difference between the two restaurants: “I’ve always been a fan of bringing people together over food, but I wanted this space to have a more casual ‘anytime vibe’ as opposed to going out for a special occasion like a birthday or anniversary. I’m looking for a broader audience at this location. We’ve got the hospital and college crowd to cheer us on.”
Executive chef Steve Fulmer (who migrated from Alba) takes the lead on creating wood-fired pies with big bubbly crusts, which boast uber-cool street names like Da Bomb (soppresatta, tomato, mozzarella, basil and Calabrian chiles), Daytripper (‘shrooms, roasted garlic bechamel, fontina, pecorino and scallion), The Kingdom (bacon, beer-braised onions, scamorza and parsley) and The Big A (overnight pork, sauerkraut, mozzarella, dijon and peppadew chiles).
Incorporating several small plates in addition to the pizza, the kraft-paper menu includes an inspired list of verdura, insalata, piccoli and “like-buttah” house-made pasta. Elevated choices include charred wild ramps, Tuscan kale, speck & fontina croquettes and hand-cut tagliatelle with brown butter, sage and parmesan. The entire top of the menu is a vegan oasis and a semi-find for gluten-free peeps.
I got to chomp on the charred carrots, paired with perfectly ripe avocado, a pickled onion stack and a clean cucumber yogurt dressing; the pan-seared gnocchi, smothered in sausage and tomato ragu and torn beet greens with cloudlike dollops of hand-dipped ricotta; and the beautifully simple Margherita pizza.
The 40-seat digs show exposed ceilings and brick walls that are anchored with a whimsical full wall mural by local Philly street artist NTel. Cool hipster music thumps in the background as the phone continuously rings off the hook. A consistently sporadic stream of curious (hungry) patrons are turned away at the door while last-minute prep is going on for the evening’s soft-opening friends and family event. The staff looks fresh, urban and enthusiastic.
Alternating blond and black-shellacked cozy twosome, foursome and larger handmade communal trestle tables are hugged with aluminum gray and fire-engine red metal chairs. A small pub-like counter facing County Line Road borders the entrance and holds six rotating taps of craft brew (I quaffed Free Will’s Provisional Funk Sour) and over 80 types of bottles and cans, which can be downed with dinner or snagged to go. Custom Biga growlers are sure to fly out the door as well. No fancy-shmancy wine here—but feel free to BYO.
Pizza prices run from 10 bucks for a starter Marinara to $18 for the clam-covered Pepe’s. Pasta dishes average $13, while snack plates run from $6–$10. All very doable for this end of town.
Ready. Set. Go!
Lunch and dinner use the same menu. Parking is available on site. Find a spattering of streetside tables outside. Hours are 11 a.m.–10 p.m. on weeknights, until 11 on weekends. Be sure to follow Biga on the web, Facebook and Instagram.
Biga is located at 810 Glenbrook Ave. in Bryn Mawr; phone: (610) 525-4800.
- Photos: Ed Williams
